When traveling, you sometimes stumble upon the best places to eat without even trying.

This was our case with Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant on the corner of George and Gloucester Streets in Oxford. Moseying along, we noticed a long line of people coming out of this one particular restaurant – must be good, we thought. Soon enough we found ourselves in the crowd, not quite aware of what we were getting ourselves into (not necessarily recommended, but in this case it worked).

The line outside moved fairly quickly, as the place is rather large (two floors). Once through the doors, we were given a beeper and told the wait would be about 15 minutes. Not so bad, I’m thinking, as a young woman directs us to the bar and waiting area. As soon as we order some wine, the restaurant’s entire computer system crashes. That means no food orders, and no more seating until the problem is solved! This is where the impatient customers shout, “Pen and paper, pen and paper!” I agree, but I’m having fun sitting on a high stool overlooking the modern dining room with a glass of red wine in one hand and roasted almonds with chili and fennel salt in the other. These nuts were the only computer-independent food in the lot – lucky for Jamie, they were quite nice and tied us over until we were finally able to be seated.

The Oxford restaurant opened in 2008 and was the first in the line of Italian restaurants Jamie Oliver has opened around Britain. While the general atmosphere was contemporary, the smells coming from the kitchen (which you could peek into via a television screen) were reminiscent of old-fashioned Italian cooking. I think Jamie’s secret is garlic.

What we ordered: Monachelle Putanesca – a traditional sauce I have always been fond of. This version was excellent, slightly tangy with ripe Kalamata olives and juicy capers. I was disappointed with the pasta, though. A lighter noodle would have done better justice to such a delicate sauce. Instead, the putanesca was served with thick, heavy shells that were too overwhelming. Jamie’s Italian Spaghetti Bolognese – here, the chefs took a traditional dish and revisited it. My husband thoroughly enjoyed it, as there was a balanced combination of different meats, and the pasta was cooked just right – al dente. We continued drinking our wine (2003 Piemonte – Barbera d’asti superiore ‘Tere caude’, ca’ del matt), which was smooth and plumy -  highly recommend.

In sum, our experience wasn’t perfect, but the sauces, wines and smells were worth it.

Oh wait, I forgot to mention the Funky Chips with fresh garlic and parsley. These home-made fries were the tell-all and why I’m sure Jamie’s secret ingredient must be garlic.

Address:

Jamie’s Italian, Oxford

24-26 George Street

Oxford, OX1 2AE

Tel: 01865 83 83 83 (No reservations!)

Two weeks of exploring and getting to know this city. This is the first time I’ve actually had Internet access while traveling. That’s exciting since I’ll be able to share my adventures and discoveries along the way. I’ll most definitely be checking out the food scene – as well as delving into some history, of course. We’ve already had quite a culinary welcome – from a modern British pub,  to a full English breakfast and my very first Russian meal. Here are some great spots to eat while visiting Oxford:

The Oxford Retreat is a “boutique pub” located on the Oxford Canal. If you check out their website, you’ll see this restaurant/bar prides themselves on using fresh, seasonal produce from local vendors. We didn’t know this when we stumbled in just after arriving last Saturday evening. Since the restaurant was full, we enjoyed our drinks and meal in the bar, on a comfy sofa. For drinks, we tried: Staropramen, a golden lager from Prague. Brothers Pear Cider, a slightly sweet hard cider from the UK – made from pear, obviously!  We ended up going tapas style and ordering several “starters”: scallops (maybe the best I’ve ever had), calamari, and creamy mushroom bruschetta. The food was excellent and the service very friendly.

Address: 1-2 Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford, OX1 2EW

Tel: 01865 250309  (Reserve for the restaurant)

Combibos Coffee is a great place to go for breakfast. It’s a coffee house that also serves such delights as eggs benedict and a “full English breakfast” (a veggie version is available). I also noticed they have scones with clotted cream, jam and tea for £2.99 – will have to go back for that! What’s an English breakfast by-the-way? Eggs, hash browns, tomatoes, (veggie) sausages, mushrooms, beans, toast. Yum, yum. Nice, relaxed atmosphere and great choice of music. Robert Frost’s “The Road Not Taken” is displayed on the wall, along with other famous quotations.

Address: 93 Gloucester Green, Oxford, OX1 2BU (near the bus station)

Arbat is an authentic Russian restaurant located a short walk from the Magdalen Bridge.  I can’t compare to other Russian food, but this was a fun discovery. Drinks to try: Baltika, a beer from Saint Petersburg. The house red wine, from near Makhachkala, the capital of the Republic of Dagestan in the North Caucasus region. I just learned this is an important wine growing region due to the mountainous terrain. What did we eat? Starter: Grenki, fried garlic rye bread (had never seen such dark rye before). Mains: Kartoshechka s gribami, a vegetarian potato and mushroom dish served with a very fresh mix of raw veggies on the side. Shashlyk, a combination of marinated meats (served on skewers) and veggies. This restaurant has a whole slew of traditional dishes, from Borsh (soup) and Plov (slowly cooked meat and rice) to Medovik (honey cake) – too bad we were too full for dessert!

Address: 84 Cowley Road, oxford, OX4 1JB

Tel: 01865 236376

Parking hint: parking is difficult in Oxford. I’d recommend going straight to one of the outdoor parking lots. During the day you pay by the hour, but from 8pm-8am there is a flat rate (a few pounds max). Come with change to put in the machine and then display your ticket in the window of the car. You can also easily get around by foot, bicycle or bus.

Why I’m happy: tea is always served with a side of milk – you don’t even have to ask!

I’d been hearing about Chez Chartier, a historic 19^th century restaurant, ever since moving to Paris.

I’d especially wanted to go see the famous cubbies that line the walls. Little wooden drawers marked with numbers, this is where regulars once kept their napkins. Last night, we finally decided to check it out and I’m still trying to decide which was more impressive: the décor, the waiters or the classic French menu.

Today it may reach 90 degrees in Paris, and yesterday wasn’t too far behind. The large wooden fans hanging from the restaurant ceiling were working hard as we settled down at our table. Soon as we walked through the front doors, we knew this would be a unique experience. The setting immediately took us back to 1896, when the restaurant first opened:  one immense room filled with cream-colored walls, giant mirrors, intricate molding, dark wooden paneling and large chandeliers dangling from high ceilings. In addition to eying the much-awaited napkin cubbies, I also took note of the brass racks above the tables, where clients once placed their hats while dining. Even on a Wednesday night, the restaurant was packed – and very noisy. Be prepared to share a table and chat with strangers – our neighbors happened to be an older Canadian couple on a five-week tour of Europe.

It’s cliché to say the waiters were busy as bees, but I really can’t think of a better comparison. Dressed in traditional black vests and long white aprons, they swarmed from one table to the next. Adding to the historic charm and tradition, each one wore a small button sporting a number and scribbled orders down on the tablecloths. At the end, that became our bill: a few chicken scratches on the corner of our table, the items added up by hand!

The restaurant’s real name is Bouillon Chartier. Bouillon means stock in French and comes from when they were known for their inexpensive meat and vegetable stock. In the beginning, the “canteen’s” goal was to provide rapid, modestly-priced meals to regular customers (workers and neighborhood locals). Not much has changed (except the clientele which now comes from all corners of the globe); the no-frills paper menu proposes honest, simple French cuisine at a reasonable price. I chose bar (European sea bass) with boiled potatoes and fennel seeds. Sébastien chose a confit de canard – and a half-bottle of Bordeaux Grave to share – a combination which immediately gave away his Southwest origins and seemed to put us on some sort of special terms with our waiter. Busy as he was, he took care to bring us everything we needed.

After dinner, we took a stroll around the neighborhood, which, like the restaurant, takes you back in time. Just across the street is the historic “Passage des Panaramas”, a narrow covered passageway that dates back to 1800. We happily navigated our way around the tiny bistro tables covering remnants of old mosaic tiles. There are also a handful of intriguing shops – like one that sells antique toys, doodads and baby dolls, or parts of them at least. This glass-covered passage was apparently the first place gas electricity was used in Paris back in 1816 and was a popular spot to be seen.

Chez Chartier is open everyday from 11:30am-10:00pm. First-come, first served – as they don’t take reservations! We were lucky and didn’t have to wait yesterday, but apparently there’s a line out the door on Sundays.

Address:

7, rue du Faubourg-Montmartre (9^th arrondissement)

Metro: Grands Boulevards

In this post, I’ll be talking about Greens, an upscale vegetarian restaurant, Pauline’s Pizza and Dragon Well, a hip Chinese spot.

Greens

My new favorite restaurant (in the world, I think) is Greens at Fort Mason. It’s located in an old warehouse overlooking San Francisco Bay. According to their website, they were one of the pioneers in establishing vegetarian gastronomy in the United States. Today, this is a fine-dining restaurant that serves only the highest quality vegetarian cuisine.

On Saturday nights Greens proposes a four-course set menu ($49, not including drinks). It may be a splurge, but is well worth it. Vegetarian or not, I’m convinced the pickiest of diners will leave feeling quite satisfied. You may choose from a variety of appealing (and wholesome) appetizers, main courses and desserts. You may also opt for a selection of wines, most of which are organic and are paired with your meal choice ($28 for 2 glasses of wine, plus an aperitif).

I was at Greens celebrating a group birthday party (that’s how you do it when you, your family, and friends are scattered all over the world). Our toast to turning 30 (we were 3 college friends in the lot) started off with Alsatian crément rosé (Lucien Albrecht)- essentially rose-colored champagne. We enjoyed this with goat cheese, olives and a fennel-Satsuma salad.

Next on the list was the appetizer (and the beginning of my new-found love for Italian butter beans). I chose: grilled asparagus, artichokes and radicchio, over the aforementioned beans and topped with shavings of Andante Dairy’s Etude goat cheese. (Andante, by the way, is a California-based, single-woman-run dairy farm, that produces numerous specialty cheeses. You can find them, for example, at the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market that I mentioned in my last post).

My main dish: wild mushroom ravioli- so decadent it made me wish I was actually one of the mushrooms I was eating. Really. The homemade ravioli and mushrooms melted in my mouth just as much as the herbed butter that accompanied them.

And for dessert: a cheerful almond, honey tart.

No matter how much I rave about the quality of Greens’ cuisine, it won’t do it justice.

What I remember most: every single bite, the wine pairings and the view overlooking the bay.

Pauline’s Pizza

Pauline’s isn’t just any pizza restaurant: partly because they have their own organic vegetable gardens- which provide for many of the toppings on their pizzas. They also have their own vineyards. The house red, a 2006 Mourvedre, (an earthy, kind of leathery wine), accompanied the special house pizza (pesto) and the special house salad (a flirtatious combination of organic produce), quite well.

What I remember most: the noisy bustle, the crayon jar on the table, and the friendly wait staff.

Dragon Well

You can never forget a restaurant that introduces you to something new. At Dragon Well, a rather refined Chinese restaurant on Chestnut Street, it was stir-fried peas shoots. I had eyed them earlier in the week at the farmer’s market, but had never actually eaten them. I let the fact that I’m actually writing about them speak for itself. In addition to the pea shoots (a side dish), I’d recommend the Steamed Black Bean Salmon (cooked in rice wine and garnished with spinach) and the Stir-fried Curry Mi Fun (with five-spiced tofu and vermicelli noodles). At the end of your meal, you get to choose from either a traditional, or chocolate, fortune cookie.

What I remember most: the inviting smell of spices coming from the kitchen.

Addresses (all in San Francisco):

Greens

Fort Mason, Building A / Tel: (415) 771-6222 (Accept online reservations.)

Pauline’s Pizza

260 Valencia / Tel: (415) 552-2050

Dragon Well

2142 Chestnut Street / Tel: (415) 474-6888

From the non-descript outside, you really can’t tell what kind of restaurant this is.  As you walk through the doors and dark curtains draped at the entrance, you begin to understand that L’Oga is a funky cross between tradition and modern trend.  The lighting is dim candlelight.  The walls are covered with boldly colored contemporary paintings and handwritten chalkboards announcing the menu and wine lists- a décor full of edgy, eye-appealing contrasts.

We opted for the special Valentine’s menu (49 euros per person, not including wine). Although there were two choices for each course, we went true Valentine style and both selected: entrée- nage de St. Jacques au légumes et gingembre (scallops served in a light creamy sauce with leeks, carrots and ginger); plat principal- mi-cru de thon rouge au sésame et basilique, purée de carottes et patate douces au lait de coco (seared tuna with sesame seeds and pesto sauce, accompanied by a sweet potato, carrot and coconut milk puree); déssert- coeur coulant chocolaté, coulis pistache (warm chocolate dessert with creamy pistachio sauce).  Also included in the menu: a cocktail of either champagne, rose, and litchi or champagne, vodka and raspberry.

Sounds good.  What did we think?  The atmosphere: fun and amorous, excellent choice for an evening en couple. The cuisine: Very satisfying (except for the scallops, which had obviously been prepared in their dishes ahead of time, as they were served too quickly after ordering and were already getting cold).  The tuna was perfectly cooked, tender and quite tasteful.  The dessert was also enjoyable, though the pistachio sauce tasted a bit bland.  The service: Unfortunately, the service wasn’t quite up to par.  Most of the waiters were friendly, but (except for the scallops) we waited too long for everything, from ordering to receiving the dishes- and the person who took the dessert order outright forgot about it.  What was awkward was that the tables didn’t have one primary waiter, but a constant rotation of three or four different people.

All in all, we had a really enjoyable evening. I can’t put L’Oga on my personal list of favorite spots in Paris, though, mostly because of the service and lack of feeling completely at ease.  What I did like about this restaurant is that it helped me get closer to answering my ongoing question: what’s French Cuisine, Today? This experience was a hint that modern French cuisine has undoubtedly been influenced by the larger international community- chefs nowadays seem to be taking traditional dishes and spicing them up with such exotic ingredients as sweet potatoes and coconut milk- a trend my taste buds find especially appealing.

L’Oga

Address: 82, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (11^th)

Telephone: 01 43 57 60 15

Metro: Parmentier

We didn’t really know if we were supposed to eat the heads or not!

Looking back at our most-recent two days in the Loire Valley, I’m still proud of myself for trying the tiny fish you see in the photo.  Friture de petits poissons was listed as an appetizer on La Croisette’s menu.  We were sitting out on the restaurant’s terrasse in a very small town called Béhuard, looking over the River Loire and enjoying one of the last warm evenings of late summer.  I was in the mood for culinary adventure and began setting up my rules for the evening: (1) I wanted to eat something I’d never tried before and (2) I wanted it to be something typique de la région.  Our waiter told us these little guys had been fished right out of the River Loire.  They were then battered up, fried and served to us with fresh lemon juice and tartar sauce.  Of course, the first thing I noticed were the beady eyes and I was slightly hesitant at first, but once I got cracking, I was having fun.  When the waiter came to clear the plate, all was gone- except for a few (yep, only a few) conspicuous-looking heads.

After this came the filet de sandre au beurre blanc, a white fish in a thick butter sauce.  According to the dictionary, sandre is “pikeperch” in English (I’d definitely never heard of that one before).  We’d been told it was not only native to the River Loire, but also the best thing on the menu.  We’d also been warned not to drink water with it- because the sauce was so rich (remember oil and water don’t mix!).  Instead, one was to drink wine.  When it comes to dining, we like to follow local advice.

Since we were trying everything else local, we went for two (well, four in the end) different glasses of dry white wine from the region.  According to this site, the Loire Valley is France’s leading producer of white wines.  Here’s what we ordered: a Savennières (Domaine des Forges, Clos du Papillon) and an Anjou blanc (Domaine Mosse). Unlike many other French wines, those of the Loire Valley tend to be made from a single cépage (grape variety).  Both of these were of the variety Chenin and, served chilled, went extremely well with the sandre.  As usual, I was on the lookout for a candidate for my “extra kudos for sustainability.” This trip’s winner: Domaine Mosse, since they practice organic farming techniques in their vineyards.

Our meal came between a visit to the Chateau de Serrant and a night in the bed and breakfast La Tour Girault.  This lesser-known castle was especially impressive for two reasons: the 135-square-meter kitchen (with its eight-oven kitchen range and 900 pieces of copper cookware) and the equally large library (with its 8,000 leather-bound books, including an original copy of Jean de la Fontaine’s Fables).  Apparently, this collection is one of the largest in France and actually counts 12,000 books total.

We have yet to be disappointed with a bed and breakfast in the Loire Valley and now have another favorite to add to our list.  Ask for the room “Sampan” for the very original charpente (the A-frame woodwork coming down from the ceiling).  Our hostess was especially welcoming and even made our dinner reservations for us- knowing the only restaurant open on a Monday evening!  And, as usual, I paid special attention to the homemade green plum jam at breakfast.

Two days was way to short, but that’s probably why we keep going back to the Loire Valley…

What do quinoa, mangoes and shrimp have in common?

Not much; they just all found their way into my “Tantalizing Tabouli.”  I’m a huge fan of tabouli, traditionally made with bulgur wheat and dominated by fresh parsley.  I often play with different combinations of ingredients, including the grains.  This version is a fun, colorful (and protein-packed) spin on the tabouli most of us know.

How’d I get the idea?  Recently, we discovered a new restaurant in Paris’ 15th arrondissement.  C’est mon plaisir (8, rue Falguière, 75015) has a menu filled with many enticing entrées.  Because I had to save room for the main course, I ended up opting for a simple salad with roquette lettuce, artichoke hearts and parmesan, but was tempted by a salad with, well, the three aforementioned ingredients.  Since eyeing them on the menu, I couldn’t stop thinking about how I could put those ingredients together.  I made my tabouli twice: once using cold, cooked shrimp and mixing them into the rest of the salad (everything was cold) and once sautéing them and placing hot shrimp over the cold salad- I vote for this last version.  You can either keep the shrimp whole or cut them into smaller pieces.

Quinoa is one of my preferred “grains.”  I just referred to it as a grain, like most of us do, but it isn’t a grain at all. It’s a highly nutritional seed that comes from the plant Chenopodium quinoa, from the same family as spinach and beets!  Quinoa is known for having been cultivated, and highly revered, by the Incas and its popularity has steadily been increasing here in France.  It’s especially good for vegetarians, as it has a high protein content, and, for those who seek alternatives to wheat, the seeds are naturally gluten-free.  In France you can find it relatively easily, either in natural food markets such as Naturalia or La Vie Claire or in the biologique (organic) or commerce equitable (fair trade) aisles of larger grocery stores.

Preparation note: Rinse quinoa in a tightly-woven sieve before cooking to eliminate any film and to avoid a bitter taste.  Cook in salted water (1 part quinoa, 2 parts water) and let cool before making the salad.  Here’s the recipe for 4 people…

Shopping List:

1 cup (uncooked) quinoa
1 cup diced cucumber
1/2 cup diced red onion
1 cup diced mango
24 small shrimp (cooked and peeled)
Lots of mint leaves (cut into small pieces)
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (or more to taste)

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix all the ingredients.

If sautéing the shrimp separately, add some spices.  I used a few dashes of paprika and turmeric (curcuma in French).

We ate our tabouli with roasted veggies (bell peppers, red onions…) and a green salad with balsamic vinegrette.

What else might go well with it?

Here’s one last post in my series on the Loire Valley.

Now that we’ve seen where we stayed and what we saw, this one’s about what we ate.

Part 4: Asparagus Invasion

A primeur is a young fruit or vegetable that starts off the season. This is what we were eating during our trip in April. March through June is asparagus season in France and the Loire Valley is known for its production of this favorite.

In France, you find asparagus in three different colors: green, purple or white. I grew up eating the green ones and was taught to search out the skinny tender stalks. I’ve noticed, however, that the fat white ones seem to be the most common here in Paris- I’ve actually been on many an excursion around town trying to find slender green asparagus without any luck. The white stalks are white because they have never been exposed to sunlight and are picked as soon as they start popping out of the ground. They are tougher than the green sprigs we tend to eat in the States and need to be peeled before cooking. Though I’ve tried, I still have a preference for the stronger taste of the green ones.

Thus my excitement when I saw slender green twigs continually coming out of the restaurant kitchens on our trip. Even without trying, I had fresh asparagus at almost every meal: on top of pizza, as a side dish, in sauces…

Our most memorable meal was in Langeais at a restaurant called Au Coin des Halles (9, rue Gambetta). Here, I had bar (European sea bass) with seared asparagus and asparagus/lime sauce. At first I was a bit skeptical when I saw the color of the sauce: bright green like sherbet; but I was in asparagus heaven as soon as I started eating.

Over the last couple of months, I’ve noticed that even Parisian grocers have been subject to the asparagus invasion.

Looking in the grocery store today though, I sadly had to admit that the season has come to an end- all I could find where bunches of white stumps from Belgium. Guess I’ll have to wait for the next primeurs in March.

This is one of my favorite, and easy to find, salads in France.

Many restaurants and brasseries have it on their menu and, as the name implies, there will always be lettuce and warm goat cheese. The rest of the garnitures will vary depending on the restaurant, and the season. Unless its specified as an entrée, this salad is usually copious enough to eat on it’s own, especially at lunchtime or on a warm summer evening.

I first discovered the salade de chèvre chaud in Paris at Le Comptoir du 7ème (39, avenue de la Motte Piquet, 75007) a bistro at the metro stop Ecole militaire, right near the Eiffel Tower. Since 2001 it’s been my all-time favorite spot for this salad. The goat cheese, and a fresh tomato slice, are wrapped in a thin layer of pastry and accompanied with a variety of seasonal vegetables- perfectly satisfying.

Salade de chèvre chaud is also one of the first French specialties I learned to recreate. Here’s my version (for 2 people), easy and tasty!

For the dressing:
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar
3/4 cup (180 ml) olive oil

In a bowl, combine the mustard and vinegar. Then steadily stir in the olive oil. You can also add freshly chopped garlic or shallots. This recipe makes a lot of dressing that keeps well in the fridge.

For the salad:
2 Crottins de Chavignol (soft goat cheese)
Olive oil
Ground pepper
Dried chili flakes
Four thin slices of baguette (toasted and rubbed with garlic)
Salad greens

The rest depends on what you like. I often use:
Shredded carrots
Endive
Hard-boiled eggs
Steamed green beans
Fresh tomatoes

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).
2. Slice the goat cheese into 4 half-inch rounds and place on baking sheet.
3. Sprinkle with olive oil, a little pepper and a few chili flakes.
4. Bake until the cheese is warm and slightly turning brown (but not melted!).
5. Place cheese on prepared toasts.
6. Decorate salad with your favorite ingredients and dressing.

Bon appétit!

Car horns are tooting, jackhammers are pounding, high heels are clacking… After a three-day weekend, the city’s gone back to full speed. I’m still savoring the first balmy evenings of almost-summer, though, and thinking about ice cream.

Last night Parisians were on their way back into the city. For many, the end of a long weekend means sunburns and sand between the toes, empty picnic baskets and tired hiking boots. It also means traffic jams coming into Paris. From 3pm to 8pm yesterday the highways were classed orange (not as bad as rouge, but getting close), which basically means almost everyone was trying to enter the city at the same time. We opted not to join the crowd at the toll booths and instead waited in line at what I consider the best ice cream shop in Paris.

Gelati d’Alberto makes homemade Italian-style gelato that is worth a trek from any part of the city. Gelato has gotten big in Paris over the last few years and, of course, we’ve tried many of the numerous offerings. I certainly hesitated before choosing an official favorite glacier, but the caramel au beurre salé (a new flavor I had never tried before) combined with café (my staple) sent me over the top. Beurre salé means “salted butter” and adds a delightful tang to sweet caramel. What I especially like about this gelato is that it is more flavorful and less sugary than many traditional ice creams I’ve tried. Gelati d’Alberto’s is especially light and airy and, in place of the customary scoops, they serve it in the shape of a rose.

Unlike the toll booths, I don’t mind waiting in line for gelato. It takes me about that long to decide between the different flavors. According to the sign posted at the front door, Gelati d’Alberto makes 36 different parfums. Among my favorites are chocolat, nocciola (hazelnut), and baccio (chocolate and hazelnut!). I’d also recommend the sorbets, such as passion fruit, lemon, grapefruit, blackberry or coconut. I noticed they even had lychee, a sweet fruit originally from China that is very popular here in France.

Gelati d’Alberto has two locations in Paris: one in the Marais (12, rue des Lombards, 75004) and one in the Quartier Latin (45, rue Mouffetard, 75005). I have a little preference for the latter- simply because you can walk with your cone from the parlor up to the Panthéon and watch the sun set behind it’s majestic dome- not a bad combination.

I’m always on the lookout for other great ice cream shops in Paris…